Every person we mentioned it to said not to go to Napoli, but that if we did, to be careful. Apparently it is supposed to be more dangerous than Afghanistan, with numerous stories of muggings, kidnappings, and Mafia.
The only thing in danger while we were there were our waistlines. The birthplace of Pizza (yes, with a capital “P”), we topped off a day of multiple gelatos(including a chocolate fondue one), pastas and pastries with the (reputably) best pizza in Napoli. And yes, it was good. Oh, so good.
Other than food, Napoli was a great change to the usual touristy areas of Sorrento where we had been frequenting. With just the right mixture of funky boutiques, pop culture, and Grit (ambiguously identified as dirtiness, dodginess, danger, hardship and a general lack of polish), we had a day free of museums, American accents, camera flashes, guided tour groups. In short, we loved the lived-in Grittiness of Napoli, and just for our Mothers’ sake, made sure that we were on the train back to Sorrento before it got really dark.
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